Ready to transform your kitchen or bathroom with a stylish hexagon tile backsplash? This DIY project is achievable for most homeowners and renters, offering a stunning upgrade without breaking the bank. With careful planning, the right tools, and a bit of patience, you can achieve professional-looking results and add significant visual appeal to your space.
Quick plan (TL;DR)
- Gather Tools & Materials: Ensure you have everything from tile and thinset to a wet saw and safety gear.
- Prepare Your Surface: Clean, repair, and mark layout lines for a flawless start.
- Dry Layout Tiles: Arrange your hexagon sheets on the counter to plan cuts and spacing.
- Mix Thinset: Prepare small batches according to manufacturer instructions.
- Apply Thinset & Set Tiles: Work in small sections, pressing tiles firmly into place.
- Cut Tiles as Needed: Use a wet saw for precise cuts around obstacles and edges.
- Cure Time: Allow thinset to fully cure before grouting (typically 24-48 hours).
- Grout & Clean: Apply grout, wipe excess, and polish for a finished look.
- Seal Grout: Protect your investment with a quality grout sealer after it cures.
Before you start (scope, skill level, what can go wrong)
Installing a hexagon backsplash is a rewarding DIY project, but it requires precision and a good understanding of the steps involved. This guide assumes basic DIY competency, including comfort with measuring, cutting, and working with adhesives. While not overly complex, it's more challenging than, say, painting a wall, due to the permanence of tile and grout. Mistakes can range from uneven tiles and cracked grout to, in worst-case scenarios, improperly bonded tiles that fall off. Be prepared for some physical labor and a moderate time commitment.
Project Readiness Checklist:
- Have you watched several video tutorials specific to hexagon tile? (Hexagons can be tricky with their angles!)
- Is your wall surface clean, dry, and free of grease, dust, or loose paint?
- Are all electrical outlets, switches, and fixtures removed or masked off, and power turned off at the breaker?
- Have you verified the tile dimensions and purchased enough, plus at least 10-15% extra for cuts and breakage?
- Do you have a clear workspace and sufficient ventilation?
Tools & materials
Tools
- Tape measure
- Pencil or marker
- Level (2-foot and 4-foot recommended)
- Straightedge
- Notched trowel (size specified by tile/thinset manufacturer, typically 1/8" or 3/16" square-notch for mosaics)
- Rubber float
- Large sponges (for cleanup)
- Buckets (for mixing thinset, water)
- Drill with mixing paddle attachment
- Wet saw (tile saw) with diamond blade (rentable if not owned)
- Tile nippers (for small, irregular cuts)
- Utility knife
- Caulking gun
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
- Dust mask/respirator
Materials
- Hexagon mosaic tiles (sheet-mounted recommended for ease)
- Thinset mortar (modified or unmodified, per tile manufacturer recommendation)
- Grout (sanded or unsanded, matched to tile gap size and manufacturer spec; epoxy grout for high moisture/stain resistance)
- Grout sealer (if using standard grout)
- Tile spacers (if tiles aren't mesh-backed with integrated spacing)
- Caulk (color-matched to grout, silicone or latex acrylic with silicone)
- Painter's tape
- Drop cloths or plastic sheeting
- Clean rags
Time, cost, and difficulty
- Time: Expect 1-3 full days for a standard kitchen backsplash, plus drying/curing times. This includes prep, tiling, grouting, and sealing. Factors like surface condition, tile cutting complexity, and your experience level will influence this.
- Cost: $3-$20+ per square foot for tiles, $20-$50 for thinset/grout/sealer, and potential wet saw rental ($50-$100/day). A typical small kitchen backsplash (30-40 sq ft) might range from $300 to $1,000+ for materials alone, depending heavily on tile choice. Professional installation can easily double or triple the cost.
- Difficulty: Moderate. This project is achievable for competent DIYers but requires attention to detail, precision, and patience. Mastering the wet saw and achieving uniform grout lines are the main challenges.
Step-by-step instructions
1. Prepare the Work Area & Surface
- Clear the Space: Remove everything from countertops. Cover counters and floors with drop cloths.
- Turn Off Power: At your main electrical panel, turn off power to outlets and switches in the backsplash area. Remove cover plates and temporarily unscrew outlets/switches, pulling them slightly forward for tiling around. Tape off exposed wires.
- Clean the Wall: Thoroughly clean the wall with a degreaser, then rinse and dry completely. Scrape off any loose paint or debris. Patch any holes or cracks with spackle and let dry.
- Mark Layout Lines: Use a level and pencil to draw a horizontal reference line on the wall at your starting point (usually the countertop). If your countertop isn't perfectly level (a common issue), you can use tile spacers along the counter or set your first row on a ledger board temporarily screwed into the studs to ensure a perfectly straight line. Then, mark vertical plumb lines, especially for starting points or breaking up long runs.
2. Dry Layout Your Tiles
- Pre-plan: Lay out several sheets of hexagon tile on your clean countertop or a large piece of cardboard, just as they will appear on the wall. This helps you visualize the pattern, plan cuts, and identify any awkward spots or necessary adjustments to avoid tiny slivers of tile at corners.
- Check Pattern Flow: Ensure the hexagons interlock correctly from sheet to sheet. If using different tile batches, check for color variation. A good rule of thumb for visually appealing cuts is to aim for cuts that are at least one-third the size of a full tile; avoid tiny slivers that look accidental.
3. Mix the Thinset Mortar
- Follow Manufacturer Instructions: This is critical. Pour the specified amount of clean, cool water into a clean bucket. Slowly add thinset powder while mixing with a drill and paddle attachment. Mix until it reaches a peanut-butter-like consistency, free of lumps.
- Slake Time: Allow the thinset to "slake" (rest) for 5-10 minutes, as per instructions. This allows chemicals to activate. Remix briefly before use.
- Small Batches: Only mix what you can use in 30-60 minutes, as thinset will start to harden. If it thickens, do not add more water; discard and mix a fresh batch.
4. Apply Thinset & Set Tiles
- Section by Section: Work in small areas, about 2x2 feet at a time. Use the flat side of your notched trowel to apply a thin layer of thinset to the wall. Then, use the notched side to comb the thinset horizontally or vertically, creating uniform ridges. Ensure full coverage.
- Set Tiles: Carefully press each sheet of hexagon tile into the wet thinset. Wiggle it slightly to ensure good contact. Use your hands or a rubber float to firmly press the sheet against the wall. Check for levelness with your level and adjust immediately if needed. Maintain consistent spacing between sheets.
- Clean Excess: Immediately wipe away any thinset that squeezes up between tiles or gets on the tile surface with a damp sponge. Dried thinset is very difficult to remove.
- Cut Tiles: As you approach edges, outlets, or windows, mark tiles for cutting. Use a wet saw for straight cuts and tile nippers for small, irregular nips. Always wear safety glasses when cutting.
- Outlet Boxes: For electrical boxes, you'll likely need to cut the mesh backing and individual hexagons to fit precisely around the box. Ensure the tile edge will be covered by the outlet cover plate.
5. Allow Thinset to Cure
- Patience is Key: Let the thinset cure for the time recommended by the manufacturer, usually 24-48 hours. Do not rush this step. The tiles must be firmly bonded before grouting, or they could shift.
6. Grout the Tiles
- Mix Grout: Follow manufacturer instructions for mixing grout. It should be a consistency similar to thick oatmeal or peanut butter. Again, mix in small batches.
- Apply Grout: Use a rubber float to spread grout diagonally across the tile surface, forcing it into all the grout lines. Work in small sections (3-5 sq ft).
- Remove Excess: After 15-30 minutes (or as recommended by the manufacturer), once the grout has slightly firmed up but is still workable, hold your rubber float at a 45-degree angle and scrape off excess grout, still moving diagonally across the tiles.
- Sponge Clean: Use a damp (not wet) sponge to gently wipe the tile surface, removing grout haze. Rinse your sponge frequently in a separate bucket of clean water. Avoid digging into the grout lines. Repeat as needed until tiles are clean.
- Buff: After the grout fully dries (usually a few hours), a thin haze might remain. Buff it off with a clean, dry cloth or cheesecloth.
7. Seal the Grout & Caulk Edges
- Cure Grout: Allow grout to cure completely (typically 48-72 hours, check manufacturer instructions) before sealing.
- Apply Sealer: Apply grout sealer according to product directions, typically with a small brush or applicator, ensuring full penetration into grout lines. Wipe off any excess from the tile surface immediately.
- Caulk Edges: Apply a bead of color-matched silicone caulk where the backsplash meets the countertop, cabinets, and any other changes in plane (like corners). Smooth the caulk bead with a wet finger or a caulk tool for a clean finish.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Poor Surface Prep: Neglecting to clean and level the wall leads to uneven, poorly bonded tiles.
- Incorrect Trowel Size: Using the wrong notched trowel results in insufficient thinset coverage or too much, affecting bond strength and tile levelness.
- Mixing Too Much Thinset/Grout: These materials have limited working times. Mix small batches to avoid waste and frustration.
- Not Back-Buttering Large Tiles: While less critical for mosaics, for larger format tiles, back-buttering (applying thinset to the back of the tile) ensures full coverage. For hexagon mosaics, focus on even thinset on the wall.
- Rushing Cure Times: Impatience leads to shifting tiles during grouting or cracked grout later.
- Excessive Water During Grouting: Using too much water for cleanup can weaken the grout and cause efflorescence (white mineral deposits).
- Skipping Grout Sealing: Unsealed grout is porous and prone to staining, especially in kitchens.
Troubleshooting
Here are some common issues and their solutions:
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven Tile Surface | Insufficient or uneven thinset application; wall imperfections. | If still wet, carefully remove tile, scrape thinset, apply fresh thinset, and reset. If dry, it's difficult to fix without removing the tile; consider living with minor imperfections or consulting a pro. |
| Tiles Sliding Down | Too much thinset; thinset too wet; heavy tiles on a very smooth wall. | Use less thinset and ensure proper consistency. If problem persists, try a different thinset formulation designed for heavier tiles or vertical applications. You may need temporary spacers at the bottom. |
| Grout Cracking/Crumbling | Grout mixed too dry; insufficient cure time before sealing/stress; movement in substrate. | For small cracks, apply new grout. For widespread issues, remove and re-grout, ensuring proper mixing and cure time. Check for substrate stability. |
| Grout Haze Won't Go Away | Grout allowed to dry too long before initial cleanup; insufficient scrubbing. | Use a specialized grout haze remover (acidic or non-acidic, depending on tile type) and a scrub pad. Test in an inconspicuous area first. |
| Water Seeping Behind Tile | Improperly sealed grout; missing caulk at transitions. | Clean and re-seal grout. Apply quality caulk to all change-of-plane joints (countertop, corners, cabinet edges). Ensure the caulk creates a watertight seal. |
| Tile Edges Chipping During Cut | Dull wet saw blade; rushing the cut; incorrect blade for tile type. | Replace or sharpen wet saw blade. Slow down the cutting process, especially at the end of the cut. Ensure the blade is appropriate for ceramic, porcelain, or natural stone as needed. |
Safety notes
- Eye Protection: Always wear safety glasses when mixing thinset, cutting tiles, or working with power tools. Tiny tile shards and dust can cause serious eye injury.
- Respiratory Protection: Wear a dust mask or respirator when mixing thinset or grout, especially in enclosed spaces, to avoid inhaling fine dust particles. Ensure good ventilation.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from thinset, grout, and sharp tile edges with appropriate work gloves.
- Wet Saw Safety: Never operate a wet saw without proper training and always wear eye protection. Keep guards in place. Unplug the saw when not in use or when making adjustments.
- Electrical Safety: ALWAYS turn off power at the circuit breaker before working near outlets or switches. Use a voltage tester to confirm power is off. Exposed wires are a serious shock hazard.
- Ventilation: Ensure adequate ventilation when mixing and applying thinset, grout, and especially when using chemical-based grout removers or sealers.
- Heavy Lifting: Tile boxes can be heavy. Lift with your legs, not your back.
FAQ
Q: Do I need to seal hexagon tiles? A: Glazed ceramic or porcelain hexagon tiles typically don't need sealing. However, unglazed natural stone hexagon tiles (marble, travertine, etc.) and all grout lines (especially cementitious grout) should be sealed to protect against stains and moisture.
Q: What kind of thinset should I use? A: Always refer to your tile manufacturer's recommendations. Modified thinset often contains polymers for better adhesion and flexibility, suitable for most applications. Unmodified thinset relies on water in the air and substrate to cure. For hexagon mosaics, a good quality polymer-modified thinset is usually a safe bet.
Q: Can I install a backsplash over existing tile? A: It's generally not recommended for a backsplash, as it adds thickness, can create uneven surfaces, and may not adhere well. It's best practice to remove old tile and ensure a clean, flat substrate for optimal results.
Q: How long until I can use my kitchen after tiling? A: You can typically resume light use of the kitchen after grouting, but avoid direct contact with the new grout for at least 24-48 hours. Allow grout to fully cure (check manufacturer specs, often 72 hours) before wiping down aggressively or exposing to moisture. If you sealed the grout, wait for the sealer to dry/cure.
Q: What's the best way to clean my new hexagon backsplash? A: Once cured and sealed, clean your backsplash with a damp cloth and mild, pH-neutral cleaner. Avoid abrasive scrubbers or harsh chemical cleaners, especially on natural stone or sealed grout, as they can damage the surface or break down the sealer.
Q: How do I handle outlets with hexagon tiles? A: After removing the outlet cover and pulling the receptacle slightly forward (power off!), dry-fit your tile sheets around the box. You'll likely need to cut individual hexagons from the mesh to create a custom fit. Ensure the tile edge sits behind where the new outlet cover plate will screw back on, allowing a clean, finished look.
Sources & claims handling
All specific product specifications, curing times, and application techniques mentioned are general guidelines. Always consult the following for precise instructions and compliance:
- Tile manufacturer's installation guides
- Thinset and grout manufacturer's technical data sheets
- Local building code authority (for permits or specific requirements)
- Tile Council of North America (TCNA) installation standards
- Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) guidelines for workplace safety
- Underwriters Laboratories (UL) for electrical product safety
Installing a hexagon backsplash is a rewarding endeavor that can significantly upgrade your home. By following these steps, prioritizing safety, and paying close attention to manufacturer instructions, you're well on your way to a beautiful, lasting result. Enjoy your new, eye-catching backsplash!